Cozumel 2023

Cozumel is about 20 miles from Playa del Carmen, an easy 35-minute passenger ferry ride.  It is 9 miles wide and 30 miles long, and is one of the busiest cruise ship destinations in the world. On any given day there can be as many as 8 ships in port.  This is the main reason we have steered away from Cozumel.  We did visit it once when the cruise ships were not visiting due to covid, but the wait for the ferry was so long then it was not as enjoyable as we hoped.  It just so happened we had reasons to visit two weekends in a row and now find Cozumel to be growing on us. 

The first weekend we stayed at the B Hotel on the northern end of the western side of the island.  The snorkeling here was amazing, if you don’t mind a bit of current.  The water was clear and the fish were abundant right in front of the hotel.  And the sunset here is glorious!  At home, on the East coast of Mexico, we don’t get to enjoy such stunning sunsets. 

During our visit, for our friend Gil’s birthday, we got to meet some locals, and the more we listened the more we can see why Cozumel is a favorite spot for Mexicans and Ex-pats.  The community is diverse and the stories of how they work together to preserve and protect the island were wonderful. 

We also found the dining to be quite exceptional.  The first night we ate at Bajau, a lively and excellent seafood and steakhouse located in a relatively new boutique hotel not far from the ferry terminal. We all started with Caesar Salads which were made right at our table, 3 orders fed 8 of us. Most of the folks opted for the steaks but Mike and I both chose the baby back ribs, which were incredible.  The steaks were huge and could easily be shared.  For my side, I chose the Brussel sprouts in the secret chef’s sauce – to die for!  Possibly the best I have ever tasted, and a portion large enough to give others a try. I would highly recommend this hip new restaurant if you are looking for a memorable evening out. 

On our second trip to Cozumel we spent 3 nights and rented an Airbnb with friends.  The reason we returned a week later was because our good friend Pablo’s cruise ship was docking in Cozumel and it was our last chance to visit him before the Symphony of the Seas crossed to the Mediterranean. 

Our first night we celebrated our friends Y’vonne and Pete’s anniversary at Casa Mission Restaurant, a lovely Hacienda with a gift shop that offers tequila tasting, which we had tried on a previous trip.  This time we wanted to try the restaurant and found it to be a marvelous dining experience.  The owner lives in the house-part of the building and the veranda serves as the restaurant’s seating area.  The food is traditional Mexican and every bite we had was incredible.  Don’t forget to end your meal with a special Mexican coffee, it not only is delicious but the preparation at your table is amazing.

The next day we hired a driver and headed out to the north end again to try a beach club.  The one we wanted to visit was unfortunately closed, and we were somewhat disappointed with the one next door, so we decided to head off to CoconutsCozumel – CoconutsCozumel blog on the east side of the island and there we were not at all disappointed.  The view of the Caribbean Sea and the beaches as well as the rocks with waves crashing is spectacular.  The vibe is totally Caribbean beach bar and fun, complete with beach dogs and a parrot.  The bar’s palapa ceiling is covered with various pieces of clothing visitors have left behind.  The food was incredible, the quesadillas were great, ceviche with shrimp and conch was perfectly prepared and my grilled fish sandwich was bursting with flavor and melted in my mouth.  We will certainly go back again.

On almost every trip to Cozumel we grab a bite to eat at Palmeras.  It is located directly across the street from the ferry station - a huge open-air restaurant, a bit touristy but with consistently good food and service. 

Next time we go to Cozumel we hope to spend more time and possibly take our car.  There is a car ferry that takes off from Calica, near Xcaret, just south of Playa del Carmen.  It is a longer ferry ride but you have the convenience of having your own car to explore more hidden gems.  We will no longer be strangers to Cozumel, it is too close and yet a whole different vibe, which we are certainly growing fond of. 

In the past we have taken a day trip by boat to Cozumel and snorkeled El Cielo, a beautiful white sandy spot known for its abundance of star fish.  That and one of the many Beach Clubs are great ways to give yourself a taste of this magical island.

The beauty of living where we live is we have so many great getaways close by.  This year we hope to explore even more places. 

Lydia PontiusComment