Guadalajara Trip - Day 4
Lake Chapala
On our last day we got up early to have breakfast in Hotel Morales’ restaurant then caught our vans for a 90-minute ride to Lake Chapala. Lake Chapala is close to Guadalajara but definitely a world apart. There is very little development around the lake, lots of land to hike and quite a bit of agriculture. Our first stop was in Mezcala an interesting town, as it has maintained its independence throughout its history and continues to govern itself in the indigenous ways. The indigenous people fought hard to protect their lands especially the island of Mezcala. The island’s history goes back to ancient times when it was used for rituals. After the Spanish arrived, a church was built and at one point the island housed a prison. Both the ceremonial spot, church and prison can be visited by taking a short panga boat ride to the island. The views from the top of the prison are well worth the trip, with 360-degree views of the lake and mountains that surround it.
We followed our tour of the island with lunch in Ajijic. Ajijic is a well-known, quite influential expat retirement spot. With cobblestone roads and homes built along the lake and up the mountain side it is both quaint and beautiful. There is a malecon along the lake for walking and many small shops and restaurants to visit. Ajijic is one of the few places that offers assisted living for its aging population, especially the expats. The climate in the state of Jalisco is one of the main reasons the expats have flocked here over the years. Add the warmth of the Mexican people and it makes for a perfect spot to live out your golden years.
We had a lovely, leisurely lunch at D’shanty. The restaurant is open-air and the menu had a huge variety of options from which to choose. The gardens had flowering bougainvillea, and the largest poinsettias any of us had ever seen. The food was incredible and the staff was attentive and helpful. Following lunch, everyone said they were full, yet somehow many of us found room for ice cream after a walk along the malecon. Needless to say, it was a quiet ride home after the combination of great food and being on the water.
After a stop at the hotel to rest and freshen up, we headed to my favorite restaurant, Huesos (bones in Spanish). This restaurant needs to be on everyone’s “must do” list. Located in a residential area, the first thing you will notice is the entire outside of the building is covered with hand-made tiles. The minute you walk through the gate you can’t help being impressed. Stepping inside, the white walls decorated with the most amazing, whitewashed art and bones draw you in. The seating is one very long table. Our group took up about a third of it. The kitchen is open to the dining room and it didn’t take long to notice how incredibly focused, calm and professional every person in it was, from the head chef to the person putting the finishing touch on a dish. The wait staff was equally perfect. Huesos is not a restaurant, it is an experience, an experience like no other. Pancho worked with the staff and created an incredible menu of small plates and two specialty drinks to top off our adventure. I can’t wait to try and recreate that drink – a tequila martini with vermouth infused with guava. In addition to the martini, they also prepared Mexican mules and had a lovely assortment of wines, each paired beautifully with their small plates of fish and the next course, a mouthwatering, fall-off-the-bone ribs with a refreshing ice cream dessert. The combination of the atmosphere, staff, food, drinks and, by then, close friends made this last night simply magical.
Heading Home
The next day we slept in, had breakfast, people wandered off for last minute shops before having (too soon) to board our vans to head to the Guadalajara airport. As I mentioned in my first article, I have organized many trips for a variety of groups but this one will go down as the best! The location, Pancho, Mafer and the group were all magnificent. Pancho listened and not only met my expectations, but wowed me and outdid himself every step of the way!