Guadalajara Trip - Day One

For the last 4 years I have been leading a small water fitness class in Fatima Bay, Puerto Aventuras during high season when the snowbirds are here.  One of the best things about our class is that we share recommendations about anything and everything.  I’m not quite sure how it started, but our group decided to take a trip and explore someplace new in Mexico.  Tequila somehow was mentioned and the next thing I know we were planning a group trip to Guadalajara.  In my previous life, prior to retirement, I organized and led many groups to the Yucatan; it has always been one of my favorite jobs.  I love seeing places through the eyes of others.  Seeing them awed with a place I love brings me joy, but also always rekindles my love for the place and for Mexico as a whole.  This trip was no different. 

Originally, the plan was to do the tequila train from Guadalajara to Tequila, but, after researching and talking with others, we chose a more intimate approach (more on that later).  As I learned more about Guadalajara and the state of Jalisco it was apparent that there was so much more to see and do in addition to tequila tasting.  The first thing was to find a place to stay, and Hotel Morales seemed perfect. It’s an older hotel, recently remodeled and in the heart of the Historical District. It did not disappoint.  Built in the hacienda style, it immediately felt warm and inviting.  The staff was gracious and welcoming, attentive, but not overbearing.  The first floor was decorated for Christmas, with a lovely tree in what was once a courtyard.  Looking up you see there are 3 levels of rooms above you.  To the right is the open dining area and behind that is a small but lovely bar.  There is also a large seating area that even has a billiard table.  They have expanded the hotel and there is now an annex adjacent to the main building that houses more rooms. And on the roof is a workout center and heated pool. 

I digress, as usual, backing up a bit.  Once I realized there were so many options in and around Guadalajara I reached out to our son’s friend and former neighbor, Morgan Hurley, who has visited Guadalajara several times, procuring tequila for his restaurants.  I asked if he had a recommendation for a tour guide.  He immediately told me I had to contact Pancho, that he was the best.  I have worked with many tours guides over the years, but never one as fun, informative, flexible, and easy to communicate with as Pancho.  What stands out about him - he listens!  He asked all the right questions and made excellent suggestions.  Pancho is a certified tour guide as well as a tequila sommelier, so he has a wealth of knowledge about the area as well as the spirits.  Pancho made all the arrangements for ground transportation, restaurant reservations and was our on-site guide.  He was with us from the moment we stepped off the plane until we checked out at the hotel and got on his vans to the airport.

After checking into Hotel Morales, we broke into two groups for a 2-hour walking tour of the Historic District.  It is a gorgeous city, unique because instead of being built around a large square, it is a series of squares that create a huge cross with the Guadalajara Cathedral predominantly placed.  The Cathedral itself has gone through many renovations, from an adobe building to a gorgeous Cathedral. It has been damaged by several earthquakes but always comes back better. 

Outside the Cathedral the plazas around it create the Plazas of Crosses.  Directly in front of the Cathedral is Plaza Guadalajara with its beautiful fountain. The south side is the Plaza de Armes, with a wrought-iron bandstand gifted by France in 1880s. North of the Cathedral is the Plaza de Rotunda with  many statues of famous Mexican people.  To the east is Plaza de Liberacion, with a large statue of Miguel Hidalgo, Father of Mexico. Many concerts are held in this plaza.

We ended our tour walking past the theater, visiting a museum and walking through the largest market in all Latin America, Mercado Libertad – San Juan de Dios. I may have to return to Guadalajara just to visit and give this place my undivided attention.

Our early flight and walking tour had us all hungry and Pancho arranged for us to have a very typical Guadalajara lunch at El Pilon de los Arrieros.  This place is known locally for its birria and barbacoa, which was amazing. Just as much as the food, we loved the service and the gorgeous setting.  Don’t be in a rush when you come, we had a very typical Mexican meal that required hours to really enjoy each course.  The meal began with an assortment of small appetizers, including local cheese, guacamole, salsas and beans.  The next course was lamb barbacoa tacos.  That was followed by goat birria and lastly a pork shank cooked in banana leaves.  We finished off our meal with crème Brule.

After a short walk back to our hotel we enjoyed a few hours of relaxation before heading to Matilda de mi Amor for Mexican wine tasting and stone oven pizzas on the rooftop at sunset!  The perfect combination and ending to our first day. 

The first day was extraordinary and we couldn’t wait to see what Day Two – Tequila, Day Three Tlequepaque, and Day Four Lake Chapala had in store. 

Lydia PontiusComment